Tucked between the Alpilles and the Luberon lies Orgon, a rugged little town in Provence that time forgot — or perhaps one that chose to forget time.
At first glance, Orgon might seem like a sleepy village of weathered stone and sunburnt shutters. But peer a little closer, and you’ll uncover layers of drama embedded in its rocks and history — quite literally.
A Town Built on Rock (and Trouble)
Orgon sits on a dramatic outcrop of greenish limestone called orgonite — a rare stone once so famous, it gave the town its name. The cliffs above Orgon, crowned by the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Beauregard, offer sweeping views over the Durance valley. It’s a place where shepherds and saints might have crossed paths. Or started arguments.
But don’t let the view fool you — Orgon has had its fair share of drama.
During the French Revolution, poor old Louis XVI was stopped here on his fateful escape route from Paris. The townspeople were so furious at the king’s attempted getaway that they almost lynched him on the spot. (Les Grumpies would have offered him a glass of rosé and told him to rethink the outfit.)
It’s also worth noting that the region’s ancient quarry provided the stone used in Versailles and many other grand buildings. From Orgon to opulence — who would’ve thought?
Grumpy Wanderings
Les Grumpies strolled through Orgon’s quiet alleys, half-expecting someone to emerge from a medieval doorway offering a bowl of soupe au pistou. But instead, we found sleepy cats, the scent of lavender, and one dramatic mistral gust that nearly blew Mr. Grumpy off a viewpoint. (He blames the hat.)
After soaking up the history — and narrowly avoiding a wind-related accident — we took a scenic drive to Sénas, just 10 minutes down the road, where the real surprise awaited…
The name doesn’t lie. Le Bon Temps is a charming bistro that delivers everything you want from a Provençal lunch: warmth, flavour, and that perfect blend of casual elegance.
Think seasonal vegetables, local meats, and desserts that make you forget you ever considered a diet. The service? As warm as the crust on their homemade bread.
Mr. Grumpy ordered duck and refused to share. I had a salad so beautiful it deserved a still life. We both finished with a crème brûlée that cracked perfectly under the spoon. Bliss.
A Moment to Pause
Orgon may not be on every Provence itinerary, but that’s precisely its charm. It’s a place to slow down, breathe in the scent of thyme and pine, and let the stones tell their stories. And if you’re lucky — like us — your day will end with full bellies, satisfied smiles, and the soft clink of glasses in a hidden gem called Le Bon Temps.
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